Welcome to the
third post in our monthly discussion on the current state of the classic film
fan. It’s an examination on our
evolution, where we’ve been, where we may be going. To recap, the first two posts are here:
JTL: One common theme among classic film bloggers
I notice is that our love of old movies is a huge part of our lives: certainly
personally, and for some of us, professionally. Your blog reflects the
close relationship between your passion for image consulting and your love of
classic films. I am fascinated by how your interest in classic films
dovetails your Movie Star Makeover image consulting business.
From your
website:
Because
I love both clothes AND old movies, I centered my image consultant
business on Classic Hollywood, when studio image teams molded apparently
ordinary women into stars. These studio experts began by looking at the
individual and the type of woman she embodied, then helped her become the
most complete expression of both.
This is so
articulate and imaginative. Your perspective on classic films and
stars in terms of their image style is a unique among classic film
bloggers. While many of us profess an interest (even if only rudimentary)
in the Hollywood fashions, your blog delves into the image of Hollywood stars
in terms of fashion, hair, makeup, and breaks down all the components of
style and interprets them, not only in terms of American pop culture, but what
we can learn from and utilize today in our lives. There are reasons, of
course, for the Hollywood greats being icons, and much of that has to do with
their look (abetted by some fabulous still photography, a pet interest of
mine). I love your posts for the information you give, your analysis of
these elements of style, and most especially for the entertaining way the
articles are written.
KN: Thank you! This is music to my ears. Bloggers
hope they are not just writing for themselves, as it often seems (I mean,
really, is it THAT hard to leave a comment??), so it’s sweet to know that the
effort is appreciated. Especially so by someone as talented at writing as you!
JTL: Thank you very much. Where does the classic
film fan in you end and the image consultant begin? Or are they
inseparable? (Since my focus is history, that is the window through which
I view classic films, so I can well understand that it is difficult to not
watch a film through a prism.)
KN: They’re two sides of the same coin, I think!
I have loved classic film as long as I can remember, but I had an epiphany in
senior high, discovering that clothes really DO make the man, so to speak. I’d
been given the part of a society matron (mostly because of my dead-on imitation
of Margaret Dumont, Groucho Marx’s much-put-upon grande dame cinematic foil)
and my drama teacher, Mr. Anzalone, garbed me in a sharp, ultra-tailored navy
blue 1950’s ladies dressmaker suit. Now, since my normal attire was along the
lines of men’s tuxedo pants and tight sweaters, this was a radical departure
and, when I emerged from the costume closet looking like something from 1935 Vogue, complete with pulled back hair
and red lips, my peers’ reactions told me everything I needed to know about the
power of clothes. As I have said earlier, it was as if the hammer of Thor smote
me between the eyes. I then started watching films to gather information about
the transformative power of costume/clothing and used what I was
learning.
JTL: How long have you worked as an image
consultant, and to what degree has American pop culture of Hollywood’s heyday
influenced your analysis of clients’ needs and shaped your advice? For instance,
this from your blog:
Today, those
wonderful Silver Screen goddesses still have plenty to share with modern
women about how to make the most of their individual beauty–if you know
how to listen!
KN: I’ve been image consulting professionally for
3 years now, but for virtually decades, I’ve been offering advice (welcome or
not) to friends, the actors I would costume and strangers on the street about
what works and what doesn’t. When I was a costumer (for 5 years here in
Rochester, NY), I learned a lot about what shapes, colors, and styles flatter,
distract, add visual weight, tell the right story. It may sound funny, but I
was inspired by the memory of being a very un-put-together teen. I wanted to
help my “sisters”…but not the rich ones, no, my target client is the nice
middle-class gal who wants to feel beautiful or pretty. They’re the ones who
watch the movies and dream of glamour coming their way…so, they’re typically
the ones who respond most eagerly to analysis that incorporates the elements of
classic Hollywood glamour. They have had zero glamour in their lives—I love to
show them how Hollywood style masters made over the stars from fairly normally
pretty girls to glamour queens—without (in most cases) dissolving their
identity. For me, the key was to first determine a person’s essential
personality and style—then build on it. The gloss of Hollywood glamour is just
for the fun factor!
American pop
culture has been handy for the younger set…they’ve heard of Audrey Hepburn,
Grace Kelly, Katharine Hepburn, Lauren Bacall, Sophia Loren, Marilyn Monroe,
etc in various magazine features, fashion and beauty layouts, etc. The icons of
style are usually instantly recognized by young and old…and it’s an approach
that can connect my clients with something very appealing and exciting. For
example, the latest Tiffany’s campaign features Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at
Tiffany’s—if there wasn’t any residual cache from Audrey, they’d never bother
to make her such a prominent part of their campaign!
JTL: I also like that you use old Hollywood to
spin articles on health, exercise, and nutrition. You are a public
speaker as well—what are the most popular topics on which you’re asked to
present a talk?
KN: Oh, definitely, the MOST popular lecture is
the one on “100 Years of Fashion” and my free-form series on the back stories
of well-known and under-sung Hollywood heroines. No one wants to hear about health,
exercise or nutrition! LOL! They love to hear about how Agnes Moorehead rose to
the top despite being told she was too homely for anything but radio and how
Hedy Lamar conquered the stereotype of “dumb and beautiful” by inventing a
technology that allowed submarines to code crucial defense information; how
Judy Garland fought her “girl-next-door” image to emerge as a beautiful woman
with a stronger screen presence. They love the “underdog” stories the best.
Anyone can lecture on Marilyn Monroe, but I feel that the more interesting
stories lurk in the forgotten corners of Tinseltown. My audiences really want
to identify with the subjects of the lectures, and, let’s face it, who can
identify with Marilyn?
JTL: Later on in the year, I’m going to discuss
what we might expect for future classic film fans – and the possibility there
may be fewer as younger generations will enjoy less opportunity to be exposed
to them. In general, are the demographics of your clientele (without
getting into specific age groups) – receptive to learning about the elements of
style as you might interpret them through classic film stars – or is the world
of old movies too remote for them?
KN: As you can guess, I’ve got a bee in my Lilly
Dache bonnet about this subject. I’ve spoken to several college age groups
about developing a viable, polished career wardrobe after years of living in
pajama bottoms and sweatshirts. The presentation I give uses classic Hollywood
images, and I think the fascination of seeing timeless styles adds a unique
angle, and provides them with inspiration without making them feel it’s
unattainable. For example, when I use an image of Audrey Hepburn in capris to
illustrate the proportion of ankle to shoe to pant hem, they get it. I do
intersperse these images with modern ones to clarify how the principles that
dictate good style are reflected in something they can buy at the Limited or
Brooks Brothers, too.
JTL: When it comes to discussing the style of Cary
Grant or Loretta Young to your fellow old movie bloggers, you are, of course,
preaching to the choir. But I wonder if the general public of your
clientele is as eager to grasp them for examples?
KN: 90% of my clients are NOT old movie weirdos,
as it turns out! Some of them are completely clueless about the “classics”…many
have never seen a black and white film. But, for whatever reason (and I think
your brilliant question #8 nails why) it never fails to excite them when I show
them my Pinterest board full of fabulous clothes on classic stars—in “their”
Star Style. Essentially, it’s a perspective that allows me to indulge my
adoration of these beautiful stars and their style while showing my clients the
most obvious, clear examples of the style we’re going for. They would never
think of Rita Hayworth as an example of who they are, but when they see Rita,
they think “wow, I’m THAT kind of woman???” and it thrills them.
JTL: How do you approach your work with a
client? Do you find that they already have a firm idea in their minds of
what they want to project, or are many willing to put themselves in your hands,
trusting you to navigate this for them? Most, I imagine, are there for
career help in discovering the part that their personal style plays in their
professional image.
KN: Yes, exactly! I send clients a little
worksheet ahead of time so that when I descend upon their closet, they’re ready
for real work. Most have NO IDEA of what they want to project—so we start with
“what 3 words would you want someone to use to describe your work”…then I offer
examples, like “approachable, friendly, open” or “professional, managerial,
intelligent” or whatever. Once we establish those words, we have a good filter
for the closet editing and a future buying list. Typically, they put themselves
completely in my hands, which makes life very easy for me. I tell them about my
experience as a costumer and consultant, and offer them choices they know will
flatter them—they’ve seen the evidence before their eyes as I pull together
viable outfits from their own closets that never occurred to them. Once they
see it happening (and almost all of them say “it’s like MAGIC!”), they really
get on board and start purging like mad, eager to assemble a closet full of
outfits that genuinely flatter them. It’s so fun to see them smile like mad as
they look in the mirror and realize, “hey, I’m beautiful!!” I’m telling you,
there are sometimes tears of joy!
JTL: The future of classic film fans also brings
me to something you mentioned in your email, about cutting back on watching
TCM. I know you’ve mentioned, possibly on Facebook, I think, about your
concern of TCM’s shifting to programming many more newer movies, which I would
call non-classic or post-classic films. You’ve also announced your
decision recently to choose the Rochester Nitrate Picture Show film festival
over the TCM Classic Film Festival this year, due to they’re both being
scheduled at the same time, etc., as well as:
…the recent
and undeniable TCM trend towards screening more and more modern fare made my
decision quite a bit easier. The Dryden’s Nitrate Picture Show is by its
very nature “forced” to focus on what I deem true classic film…rend towards
screening more and more modern fare made my decision quite a bit easier. The Dryden Theatre's Nitrate
Picture Show by its very nature is "forced" to focus on what I deem
true classic film, and the idea of sleeping in my own bed, relaxing in my own
hometown, and seeing some truly wonderful pictures on a big screen surrounded
by fellow film geeks...well, it was too tempting.
JTL: Could you elaborate on your choice to cut
down on TCM? (I’m leery of TCM’s shift in programming myself.
Having been a fan of the old AMC channel before it went over to the dark side,
as they say, (I still miss Bob Dorian and Nick Clooney) I’m mentally and
emotionally trying to prepare for the day when, Robert Osborne-less, TCM
becomes another overflowing sewer of gritty cop shows, “reality” shows, and topic-of-the-day
dramas. And infomercials.)
KN: I really didn’t want to do this, Jacqueline,
cut back on TCM, because it’s like leaving a relationship! LOL! However, I saw
a similar thing happen at AMC and look where they are! I was thinking a lot
about this and I believe, for me, it’s the idea that the classic films
represent a way of looking at life that I can identify with—I am a very
straight-laced, old-fashioned Christian woman of a certain age (as the French
so delicately put it). I find no amusement or entertainment in sordid tales of
mean, ugly people being hateful to each other. I don’t enjoy seeing images that
lift up the worst aspects of humanity. It’s just not my cuppa. Life’s plenty
tough without using my spare time to view something that doesn’t leave me
feeling happy and hopeful. I guess that makes me a lightweight, but I don’t
care! I’ve had enough pain and sorrow in my real life to not seek it out for my
entertainment.
I used to know
that I could turn on TCM at any hour and know I wouldn’t see something I’d be
embarrassed to share with my mother or father. The uplifting or funny or
heartfelt stories with heroines and heroes I can admire; a life lesson to be
learned; some giggles or belly laughs that aren’t prompted by meanness, or some
really great clothes to inspire my own wardrobe—that’s what I want out of
movies. And that’s what I used to be able to count on, but now, TCM is showing
R-rated films from eras I lived through…there’s nothing exotic or interesting
about that to me. Boring as all get out! And I miss Bob Dorian and Nick Clooney
too!! Overflowing sewer…yes, that’s exactly the image that comes to mind.
Life’s dark…why make it darker? Less grit, more wit, please.
And what KILLS
me is that I, as a teen in the 1960s, came to LOVE old movies because they were
so “foreign” to my everyday life…they were another world that I could enter and
swim around in. I loved the odd phraseology, the glorious style, the interiors
populated with beautiful objects, the functions of which I could only guess at.
It was time travel and I reveled in it. Going back to 1990…yeech. By
“modernizing” their offerings, TCM is short-changing this generation, assuming
that they can only relate to the near past. My 7 year old granddaughter sobbed
her way through the climactic scene in Heidi where the Grandfather was
wandering through the streets, calling out for Heidi. Her mom said she sat
there, riveted, and started to cry saying “What will happen to the
Grandfather????” (I get tears in my eyes just writing about it! LOL!) That’s
powerful! Today, so many movies are re-treads and pre-fab emotions for these
poor kids. When they see the real thing in black and white, they can tell it’s
different. I pity this generation when TCM folds to the money men. That’s what
killed the studio system and that’s probably what’s killing TCM. No visionaries
at the helm, just money men. Happened to Disney, too!
JTL: Do you have any of those other retro-stations
like GetTV that program classic films, and do you expect they will, in future,
take up the slack?
KN: From your mouth to God’s ear! I wish!
Time-Warner Cable in my area doesn’t have those options, which is why I’m
diligently seeking alternatives to get some of those channels! As for getTV and
other retro channels, yes, I do expect them to pick up the slack with a
vengeance. I have heard that they are getting mad kinds of popular numbers in
social media, proving there’s a viable market for “old movies”…I suspect TCM
will discover that it’s easy to lose a fan and hard to win one back, especially
in this era of multiple, inexpensive, mass-deliverable options for viewing and
enjoying classic Hollywood films.
JTL: Speaking of the Rochester film festival, your
Facebook updates on the series of films you introduce at the Dryden are
terrific, and I think you must have quite a following by now of people who just
want to see what you’re wearing to emulate the film of the evening. That
is such an innovative way to combine your knowledge of classic films and your
expertise as an image consultant. There’s always a touch of humor in the
theatricality of your presentation. I hope to get to Rochester some day
to attend one of these events. How did you come to have a relationship
with the Dryden?
KN: I begged them plain and simple, about 10
years ago. I’d been attending the marvelous film screenings at the Dryden for a
few years and thought “hey, wouldn’t it be fun to give introductions in
costume?” So, I begged the then-box office manager to give me a chance. I think
I literally said, “Put me in, coach!” I told him I was going to wear a vintage
gown to introduce Gilda and he said “Oh. Okay. Sure, why not?” I think I had 2
proposals in the parking lot after the film. Again, I realized people are
STARVED for glamour these days. So, I started wearing era-appropriate attire
(of which I had oodles) to introduce all the films they’d let me have.
Eventually, I got a reputation and if I dare to show up in “civvies” I get a lot
of guff from my “fan club.” They almost always say “I love your dress!” and
when they come into the theater and see me sitting there in some outlandish
headgear or a swoopy, sequin-covered gown, they come over and say ‘Oh, goodie!
You’re introducing tonight!!!” That’s so sweet of them and it’s fun for all of
us. I love making the film-going experience 3-D in a REAL way!
JTL: What’s in store for the rest of this year on
the Dryden’s roster?
KN: Believe it or not, I have no idea! They only
send we presenters a list of potential, available films about a week or two
before the months in question. I just presented The Philadelphia Story and Adam’s
Rib in January, and A Room with a
View and Camille in February, but
who knows after that? HINT: I *do* happen to know that the Dryden is screening
a HUGE James Bond series. When I presented From
Russia With Love, I went in Moneypenny togs, as the Bond Girl attire is
harder to pull off when you’re 60 years old! LOL! Oh, newsflash—just discovered
that they are presenting a SLEW of Maureen O’Hara films—from Jamaican Inn to Our Man in Havana to Parent
Trap!! Whoopie!!!!
JTL: Perhaps, by default, in a world where there
is very little class or elegance left, our classic film stars are our best remaining
examples. And we have them preserved forever. Your thoughts?
KN: This needs to be made into a bumper sticker.
That’s why TCM’s foray into the sloppy world of today’s cinema is so
unsatisfactory—what can it offer you but the dubious sensation of knowing
you—and your world—are essentially sucky. With small, sad moments of lifted
gloom. Pathetic!
JTL: Is there anything you’d like to add about
your consulting business, about Loretta Young, about your appreciation of
classic films, or anything else you’d like to discuss?
KN: When I was a kid, I’d create the world I wanted
to live in by make-believe and movies were there to provide me with fodder for
dreams. That’s what I try to do by steering my clients towards classic cinema
for their role models. I started my business with two objectives—to try and
make my sisters feel beautiful (because I never felt beautiful as a youngster)
and to encourage folks to watch old movies so they’d want to help preserve,
conserve, and enjoy classic Hollywood.
Now, the funny
part is that my area of the country is (judging by the appearance of 90% of the
patrons in restaurants, airports, and on the street) basically uninterested in
dressing stylishly. But that’s not really rare, is it? The dumbing-down and
casualization of American clothing has cut a swath across all generations and
classes. Few but the office-bound professionals dress above the bare minimum of
style.
There’s a
DEEP-seated spirit of conformity in my hometown. As a general rule, the folks
here won’t spend money on learning how to improve their sartorial lot. So, my
moonlighting image consulting business has become limited to lectures, which
western New Yorkers love. But try to pry them out of their NFL jerseys and
you’ve got a fight on your hands! (I should have realized this years ago, since
there are NO image consulting businesses in this area per the yellow
pages—zillions of nail salons and beauty salons, but no image businesses.
That’s telling, isn’t it? LOL!)
So, I’ve
basically limited my consulting to word-of-mouth after a few years of hustling
like mad only to gain a onesie-twosie amount of clients, both locally and by
Skype. Happily, the majority of my clients have become friends, so what a
lovely by-product! One probably CAN carry coal to Newcastle, but why bother?
Life’s too short and I have too many other cool projects to tackle to worry
about it! I’m sure Loretta would have said something like that!
****
My thanks to
Kay Noske for sharing her enthusiastic input from her perspective as a classic
film fan on our unique little blogging corner of the world.
Next month, in
our fourth entry in this series, we’re going to ruminate on the evolution of
the classic film fan—from the 1950s television “late-late show” to art house
film festivals, to the nostalgia boom of the 1970s, cable, Netflix, Internet
streaming, big-screen showings, and the future for classic film fans. We may have reached a golden age. Can we expect a decline in years to
come? Join me Thursday, April 7th,
for this post.
This blog will
go on hiatus for a few weeks in the meantime.
Let me pause
here a moment to note that this Saturday, March 5th, will mark the 9th
anniversary of Another Old Movie Blog. Thank you for the pleasure of your company.